When it comes to exfoliation, microdermabrasion is the hot buzz word. The principle has been around for years, but until fifteen years ago, ‘medical dermabrasion’ was a painful treatment which required a sanding wheel and general anaesthetic. When Crystal Clear launched the first microdermabrasion machine in 1995, it was the start of the ‘exfoliating revolution’, and microdermabrasion is now available in most salons and spas around the country.
So what exactly is it and how does it work? Microdermabrasion is a superficial resurfacing technique which removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. Using a hand held nozzle, a flow of very fine crystals hit the skin which pick up the dead skin cells, layer by layer, rather than scraping them off. At the same time, a vacuum action draws away the used crystals and dead skin while also stimulating the skin at a cellular level, increasing blood flow, and collagen and elastin formation. Over several treatments, microdermabrasion can also blend scar tissue and help smooth sun damage, lines and wrinkles.
Sharon Hilditch, co founder and MD of Crystal Clear, describes it as being similar to ‘sandblasting a building, but in a very gentle, yet effective way’. ‘Because it uses low pressure it cannot damage the skin and it can be used safely and effectively on all skin types,’ she explains. ‘It’s a progressive treatment rather than aggressive and new translucent skin will emerge over a course of treatments.’ From £65 per treatment. For your nearest salon call 08705 934934.
But not all experts are fans of microdermabrasion or what they call ‘mechanical’ exfoliation. ‘The effects of microdermabrasion are quite mild compared to other treatments’, explains Dermatologist, Dr Stephanie Williams, (Europe Dermatology London, 10 Harley Street, London W1. ‘Chemical exfoliation, such as face peels which use glycolic, salicylic or tichloroacetic acid (TCA), loosen the substance that holds the skin cells together, enabling them to be shed and accelerate cell renewal. The effects are great and the treatment is also very flexible as it can be adapted to different skin types and conditions’. (link to previous feature here – chemical peels?)
Dr Sebagh only offers chemical exfoliation at his clinic. ‘I can say that we use the most effective, yet gentle formulation, which is created especially for me by a pharmacist in Paris’, he explains. ‘The peel consists of a 25% concentration of retinol A (a form of vitamin A which smoothes the skin and increases cell production) and it’s how long it’s left on the skin that dictates its efficacy. (All peels, £138. Dr Sebagh, Ground Floor, 25 Wimpole Street, London W1 020 7637 0548).
Alternatively, one of the most reliable and high-tech treatments for exfoliating the skin is laser. ActiveFX, £4,000, (http://www.cadoganclinic.com/), uses the UltraPulse CO2 fractional laser to resurface the skin. The laser delivers thousands of tiny pulses of high-energy light which peels off layers of the skin’s surface, creating a layer of new, healthier skin. It can be targeted specifically to problem areas resulting in less recovery time – up to a week – and results are immediate lasting for up to five months.
However, some experts like to combine treatments for optimum results. ‘Combinations work well, especially for older, sun damaged skin,’ explains Cosmetic Dermatologist, Dr Ravi Jain, Medical Director of the Riverbanks Clinic in Bedfordshire. ‘We often take off the first layers of skin with microdermabrasion and then follow with a chemical peel. It makes the skin incredibly receptive to other ingredients that we may apply to the skin afterwards such as antioxidants’.
Next week - Home exfoliation kits
