We all know the sun is bad for us. In fact, it has become so out of fashion, that sporting a dark ochre tan is almost as passé as smoking. And that is good news for our skin. Not only can the sun’s harmful rays cause skin cancer, but they are also responsible for 90% of all visible signs of ageing, from lines and wrinkles to crepy skin and age spots. Protection is the answer, but it can be a minefield out there. Should you wear SPF 15 or 50, on your face or all over, just on holiday or everyday, and what is the difference between UVB and UVA?
SUN DAMAGE EXPLAINED
UVB rays damage the superficial layers of the skin – the epidermis - by destroying the skin’s DNA. In response to this damage, the skin struggles to repair itself naturally resulting in sunburn, thickening and pigmentation. Research has shown that this DNA damage is in fact the trigger for the skin to produce melanin which tans the skin, meaning that tanning doesn’t actually begin until you have done some damage.
UVA accounts for 95% of the sun’s rays, and penetrates the deeper layers of the skin – the dermis - generating free radicals which contribute to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, both of which keep skin looking healthy, plump and young looking. When collagen and elastin are damaged, areas of the skin sag and wrinkle. But UVA is the most dangerous as it has also been found to contribute to DNA damage and skin cancer. The bad news is that not only does UVA penetrate clouds, but more importantly, car windows.
A good sun screen is your weapon against UV, but finding the right protection is key. SPF (sun protection factor) protects against UVB rays, but there’s still no UVA rating system. So to ensure you’re getting adequate UVA protection, your sunscreen must contain one of the five UVA-protecting ingredients and they must be listed as an active ingredient on the label. These active ingredients are:- avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789 or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), titanium diozide, zinc oxide, Tinosorb and Mexoryl SX (ecamsule). To make things simpler some, not all, sunscreen products feature a UVA star rating on the back or sides of the bottle and should have a rating of at least 3 to 5 stars.
But what about SPF30 and 50, when should we be using these? According to cosmetic physician, Dr Puneet Gupta, The Private Clinic, SPF30 is more than enough. ‘SPF30 offers approximately 97.8% protection, while 50 gives 98.2%, so the difference is marginal. You’re not achieving much, generally just thicker and greasier formulations’, he explains. And what about SPF50+? ‘In reality it’s not much more than 50, it’s more of a marketing strategy to be honest’.
But don’t think you’re getting all the protection you need simply by using a high SPF. ‘SPF measures protection against UVB rays that cause burning and skin cancer,’ explains leading dermatologist, Dr Nick Lowe. ‘We now know that UVA damages DNA, causes skin cancer and skin ageing, so if a product has high SPF but no UVA protection you are lulled into a false sense of security’. A broad spectrum product with both UVB and UVA protection (with star rating) is essential.
